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  Washington State Chapter  
  Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation  
  November 1999 Newsletter  






Of Fry Bread, Blood-letting and Old Trails

About 40 Washington and Idaho chapter members enjoyed beautiful weather as they assembled on Saturday, September 18, at the Lewis and Clark Trail State Park near Dayton, Washington. State Park Ranger Gary Lentz had set up a camp with an open fire, tents and all his guns, medical supplies, etc. on display. Gary and "Doc" Wesselius prepared elk stew, fry bread and strips of meat over the campfire to contribute to the potluck lunch. Everyone sat on logs or benches, mingled and visited as they enjoyed the great food. After stuffing ourselves silly, Gary shot one of his guns to get our attention. He then demonstrated several guns, described how they are loaded, etc., and whether or not Lewis and Clark had this or that particular gun on their trek. He also had some medical artifacts on display and explained that Lewis and Clark had three main methods of curing their men: Rush's thunderbolts, bleeding, and a sort of frightening-looking enema. Then he announced he would give a demonstration of bleeding and even had a volunteer, Steve Plucker. Gary held Steve's arm over a bowl and cut him with some kind of blade. I was sitting right in front, taking pictures, and even I was fooled right at first. The blood looked real for about five seconds, then it seemed suspiciously thin-looking. But Steve flinched at just the right moment and the whole thing could not have been set up better. Gary was so serious about it all, no one suspected that they had it all arranged ahead of time! Later in the day, I heard people saying they believed it was real until someone told them it wasn't. Some were worried about our liability, with Gary using an unsterilized blade, etc. I think everyone will remember it!

Muff Donohue, who lives in Dayton and helped make arrangements for this meeting, introduced George Touchette, a local history buff who has pored over maps and talked to old timers in the area and developed a good idea of where the Corps of Discovery came through the area and where they camped. He led the group on a carpool tour to the Patit Creek campsite. Although there were a few cows, it has not been too developed and you can get an idea of what the area looked like in 1806. The chapter members then split into two parts: one group returned to Dayton to examine some of George's research materials and the other group ventured out (with a few miscues and wrong turns) to see the old Indian trail that the Corps used. It comes down a hillside and it's pretty funky to think it's still visible after almost 200 years. Some members then spent the evening munching on leftovers and sitting by the fire before turning in to sleep in tents and campers for the night. The following morning several of us went for a "nature walk" in the old campground of the park-an area that has been closed for several years due to a flood but is in the process of being refurbished. Those several years have given it a chance to grow up and get quite wild. It was so peaceful and quiet, and we found our way down to the Touchet River where we saw a deer and a huge great horned owl.
-- submitted by Cheryl Essary


** TIME TO RENEW YOUR CHAPTER MEMBERSHIP **

As most of you know, our membership dues cover a calendar year-January through December. To keep our mailing costs manageable, we do not send renewal notices; rather we remind you at this time each year to renew your membership in our great chapter. As you'll see later in this newsletter, we are beginning work on several worthwhile projects to fulfill our purpose "to stimulate interest in matters related to the Lewis and Clark Expedition of 1803-1806." Please fill out the Membership Application/Renewal form on the back of this newsletter and send it along with your check for $10 to Don Popejoy, our Membership Chairman, before December 30. Your new membership card will be included with the next newsletter in January. Join us as we proceed on-thank you!


President's Message: Meetings & Opportunities

FIRST, I want to thank the people who made our September meeting at Lewis and Clark Trail State Park near Dayton an outstanding success. Doc Wesselius first approached Gary Lentz to suggest we meet at the park and have a program based on Gary's expertise on Lewis and Clark and on local knowledge of the trail and campsites. Cheryl Essary followed up and took care of the details with help from our local contact, Muff Donohue. Gary's L & C camp, his program on medicine and firearms, and the trail food prepared by Mrs. Lentz were great! George Touchette told of his research into early survey records to help locate campsites where the journals are somewhat ambiguous and led a field trip to local sites. Color for the meeting was provided by the Touchette Mountain Men-Doc Wesselius and Jim Meredith-in their buckskins; and Jim's teepee added another note to the proceedings. And thanks to the Idaho Chapter members who participated and made this another successful cooperative effort! And who have I forgotten? Thank you!

SECOND, we are at the beginning of new projects that will allow members to get their hands into activities that involve more than just entertaining and educating ourselves-and we will be looking for YOUR input and ideas. Our first project was to be a cooperative one with State Parks to develop interactive videos for two Visitor Centers; that proposal is on hold at the moment since the grant writer took a job out of state, and we have not yet received his input. As follow-up to the Tri-State Chapter meeting at Stevenson this past summer, we are in preliminary stages of two other new projects. The first is to be an authoritative "milepost" guidebook for the trail in the three states which bicentennial visitors can use along the L&C highways. Idaho Chapter President Anne Schorz has suggested we set up a committee of two persons from each chapter to guide this project-ANY VOLUNTEERS? The second project, also focusing on the bicentennial, will be a series of symposia to set the stage for the commemoration, which we hope can result in a new book on L&C in the Pacific Northwest. We are working with Oregon Chapter President Keith Hay to develop this challenging project; it will involve applying for grants to support outstanding contributors. We solicit YOUR INTEREST in participating in these projects and will provide more details soon.

THIRD, at the Foundation's annual meeting in Bismarck, we learned of two national initiatives that invite participation by the chapters. The first is the Trail Committee and Inventory of Private Holdings wherein the LCTHF takes the lead in identifying the portions of the trail and important sites that lie on or are adjacent to private lands. Trail Committee Chair Larry Epstein has asked each chapter to provide a contact willing to serve on the Trail Committee as trail coordinator for our chapter's portion of the trail. IF YOU THINK YOU MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN THIS COMMITTEE, PLEASE LET ME KNOW. We need to develop an inventory and work with private landowners and assure them that our interest is one of respect for their rights in our efforts to further protect and promote stewardship of the Trail. The National LCTHF and the Bicentennial Council are currently recruiting a Trail Coordinator who will head this project, and the Trail Chair plans to develop a format for gathering and reporting this information soon.

The second national initiative is the Young Adults Committee made up of members from each chapter. Young adults and scholarship and education area are ones that I consider important locally but where I have not been successful in developing initiatives for the chapter. We sorely need someone to look into this area for the chapter and help us develop some action. ANY IDEAS? CAN YOU HELP? I APPRECIATE YOUR INPUT. LET US KNOW HOW WE ARE SUCCEEDING AND-MORE IMPORTANT -WHERE WE ARE FAILING. HERE'S MY NEW ADDRESS:
Murray Hayes
936 Cameron Rd.
Sequim, WA  98382
(360) 582-1069
mlhayes@olypen.com

"From Canoes to Horses"- LCTHF Annual Meeting Info

The LCTHF's Annual Meeting, hosted by the Camp Fortunate Chapter in Dillon, Montana, is scheduled for August 13 -16. More info will be in the next issue of We Proceeded On. As we promised in the Autumn newsletter, here is accommodation info. The Best Western Inn is already full so it's not too early to make your plans! Centennial Inn B&B 406-683-4454; Comfort Inn of Dillon 406-683-6831; GuestHouse Inn amp;& Suites 406-683-3636; Pioneer Mountain B&B 406-683-5445; Rattlesnake Cliffs Ranch (8 miles south on I-15) 406-683-2126; Sacajawea Motel 406-683-2381; Sundowner Motel 406-683-2375; Super 8 Motel 406-683-4288; Western Montana College Dormitory 406-683-7566 (singles & doubles).

The Lewis & Clark Corner
Info supplied by Don Popejoy [dpoctalc1@aol.com]

Books of interest:
Fire, Faults and Floods: A Road & Trail Guide Exploring the Origins of the Columbia River Basin by Marge and Ted Mueller (1997)

The Grand Expedition of Lewis and Clark As Seen by CM Russell by Elizabeth Dear (1998)

The Hills by the Headwaters: 1800's History Around the Horseshoe Hills of Gallatin County, Montana by Ed Fenlason & Mel Gemmill (1997)

Montana's Wild & Scenic Upper Missouri River written by Glenn Monahan
for the BLM in Fort Benton, Montana. Also the BLM's accompanying maps (two) which follows the text mile by mile-awesome work; this is what Gail Carbiener and I used on our recent Misouri River trip (see article in this newsletter).

Window to the Palouse by Jeanne Kjack (1998)

Websites of interest:
The Columbia River Connection: Lewis and Clark and The Oregon Trail
(this site is on-going and will be added to monthly)
http://members.aol.com/dpoctalc1/home.html

Chapter Logo Contest Announced

Tune up your imagination, turn on those creative juices and sharpen your pencil-we're conducting a contest for design of a chapter logo. All chapter members are eligible to submit as many designs as they wish. Members attending the February 12 meeting in Tacoma will vote to select the winning design. You don't have to be an artist-just submit a good sketch of your idea; if it is selected, we'll have a "professional" translate it into a finished product.

The rules are fairly simple: 1) design cannot include any trademarked or copyrighted images; 2) design must be able to serve multiple uses to represent our chapter (newsletter, letterhead, membership cards, flyers, publications, etc.); 3) designer agrees to donate the image for chapter use with "no strings attached"; 4) design should be historically accurate; 5) submitted design should be no smaller than 6"x6" and no larger than 12"x12"; 7) image can be rendered in color or black/white/shades of gray but must be usable in black and white and shades of gray since we would not always be using color printing.

All submissions must include the designer's name, address & phone number and must be received before February 1, 2000.
Send your entry to
Secretary Pam Andersen
2374 Crestline Blvd NW
Olympia, WA  98502

And you ask, "What is the prize?" A beautiful pottery mug with an incised reproduction of William Clark's signature as found on Pompey's Pillar and the gratitude of your fellow members for giving us a logo that does us proud.

May 2000 Chapter Meeting Set for Horsethief Lake
Includes Opportunity to Tour Indian Petroglyphs

Horsethief Lake State Park in the beautiful Columbia River Gorge will be the site of our spring chapter meeting. Mark your calendar for Saturday, May 20, 2000, when we will enjoy another potluck lunch and a great program by Martin Plamondon. He has done extensive research of Lewis and Clark in the Horsethief Lake area and will share not only his knowledge but also maps and pictures he has collected.

Park rangers are offering a guided tour of the Indian petroglyphs in the area at 10:00 a.m., Saturday morning. A maximum of 30 people can be accommodated on this tour. The trail is not difficult; however, it is recommended that those who sign up have a good sense of balance and dexterity. The trail is not paved and is only 12-18 inches wide with small, sharp rocks. Wear sturdy shoes. If you are interested, you MUST register with Cheryl Essary by April 15 at the latest--no exceptions! You can contact Cheryl by phone at 509-488-9074 or by mail at 886 So Hwy 17, Othello, WA 99344-9799 or by e-mail at merckdf@concord.televar.com. Registrations will be accepted on a first come, first served basis. There is no charge for the tour, but rangers must have an accurate count of the number of people attending. Since we are limited to only 30 slots, the following guidelines will apply: you will be notified if we receive your reservation after the 30 slots are filled; and if you register but then find you will not be able to attend, please notify Cheryl right away so she can include someone else on this desirable tour.

There are only 12 campsites at the park, so if you wish to stay overnight, get to the park early! Nearby cities include White Salmon and Bingen, Washington, and The Dalles, Oregon. More information on accommodation options will appear in the next newsletter.

Canoeing the Wild and Scenic Upper Missouri River: "The River That Scolds All Others"

In August of this year, our Membership Chairman, Don Popejoy, realized the fulfillment of a dream-a float trip on the Wild and Scenic Upper Missouri River. This is his account of a very personal experience, following in the footsteps of our beloved Lewis and Clark Expedition.

August 23rd, 1999, had finally arrived! So? you ask; this day arrives every year, sorta like clock work! Well, this August 23rd was talked about for almost a year, and plans for it were made way back in January, when we felt safe and adventuresome. The fact is well known that Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery made the same journey that we were about to set out on some 194 years ago. Then the Missouri River was wild and crazy, full of snags, rapids and beauty beyond compare.

Gail Carbiener, his son David (known affectionately as Carb), and I arrived in Lewistown, Montana, on the afternoon of the 22nd. We stayed in a hotel arranged by our river guide, Sid Napier. First of all, how could anyone go wrong with a river guide whose last name is Napier, whose HQs is based out of Lewistown, and who calls his river tour outfit Starwest Adventures? Second of all, we had the afternoon and a long evening to think about all the things we didn't dare consider before. I won't go into detail, but we didn't sleep much that night!

Needless to say, we arrived in Fort Benton, MT, at around 9 AM on the 23rd just like our trip itinerary said we would. While Gail, Carb and I walked the famous Fort Benton Riverfront and toured the wonderful BLM visitors center along with the remains of Ft. Benton, Sid and his crew of three (Sid's son Jimmie; Steve, the chef who doubled as a Catholic priest, and Jim, the two-legged pack mule) loaded the canoes and the pontoon with all our personal gear, the tents, supplies for seven days, snacks, water, pop and BEER. . . lots of beer! Of the twelve cases of beer, only seven cans were left when we reached Kipp State Park 147 miles and seven days later.

The moment of truth finally arrived. As we stood before our fully packed, sleek, red Mad River Canoes sitting quietly on the waters of the muddy Missouri, our thoughts became emotions, our emotions became sensations, and our sensations became realization-realization that here we were, about to embark on an adventure that only a few have ever experienced. Of course hundreds and thousands of people have floated or canoed the same stretch of river we were about to set out on, but not all would relive the adventure of Lewis and Clark in their hearts and minds like we would! Fear of the river, fear of the canoe, fear of the rapids-all floated away downstream, leaving us with the thrill and excitement of the moment. That moment lasted seven glorious days and nights and will be with us forever, as it was with the Corps of Discovery.

We took to the river like seasoned veterans (?) with Gail and Carb in one canoe and little Jimmie and myself in the other. Sid, Steve and chef/priest Jim guided the pontoon swiftly through the water as we dipped our paddles into the fabled Missouri, searching for the spirits and ghosts of those undaunted men of the Lewis and Clark expedition. There is so much to tell you that it is impossible to do so in this article. This Wild and Scenic stretch of the river has so much incredible history to it: from the Native American way of life, Lewis and Clark, through the fur trade era, followed by the steamboats and homesteaders. So I will stay totally with Lewis and Clark in this article and TRY to describe the sights, sounds, scenery and our feelings as we discover this river for the first time.

This is really the only way to see all 13 Lewis and Clark campsites along this corridor. From 5/24/05 to 6/12/05, there were 10 sites where the entire Corps camped, one where Lewis camped, and two where Clark camped. In July 1806, Lewis had three campsites: one a contingent camp and the other two had been used on the westbound trip. I will detail these in chronological order. Since we are canoeing downstream with the flow of the current, we will be going the opposite direction from the Corp's May/June 1805 journey. We will be canoeing in the same direction that Lewis was going in July 1806; therefore keep in mind that I'll be describing the areas of interest from their last site (6/12/05) backwards in time to their first site (5/24/05). Got it? Good, let's get started.

After the first uncertain five miles of paddling, we came to the first site of interest, this now being Shonkin Creek named by L & C as Snow River. We then rounded Evans Bend and came to Lewis's camp of June 11, 1805. This is where Lewis camped after leaving Clark 14 miles below at the mouth of the Marias River. Remember that Lewis had set out with four of his men to try to find the great falls they had been told so much about. Clark stayed at the Marias Hotel (just kidding) one more day to finish the repairs to their equipment and to cache some of their supplies. Two days later Lewis discovered the Great Falls. The two captains were reunited on June 16th at the mouth of Belt (Portage) Creek. Clark also camped here on June 12, 1806. Another 14 miles brought us to our first campsite, at the mouth of the Marias River. About one mile upstream from our campsite is a hiking trail to an overlook of the Marias and Missouri rivers confluence with a kiosk put up by the Portage chapter of the LCTHF, which describes the difficult time the Corps had deciding which river to follow to the West. This is now called Decision Point. They camped here from June 2-10, 1805, and here we were almost 200 years later looking down from Decision Point and trying to imagine the drama that was unfolding. The strain and sense of urgency must have been tremendous; and after reading the journals so many times about this stunning encounter with the two rivers, it brought chills down our spines and tears to Gail's eyes. I found out a few minutes later that the tears were from the prickly pear cactus Gail had accidentally stepped on. Now that is really getting into the L & C experience, actually one step beyond mine. The two rivers have changed so much over the last two centuries that it is now hard to determine the actual campsite of the Corps for that night, but we know that we are camping on the opposite side of the Missouri River from them. We were sitting near the water's edge encircling a blazing fire; while watching a beautiful sunset, we listen to the ripple of the water as it passes slowly before us, we hear the sound of flapping wings as the geese fly high overhead, and then we thrill to the sensuous call of the coyotes. Surely, Seaman would soon come running into camp after his hard day of exploring and chasing deer, water fowl and other creatures that he had never seen before! Wait. . . I see him now! "Come here, Seaman. Good boy!" One thing that struck us was the diversity of wildlife which was noted by L & C. Of course we didn't see any buffalo or bears but we did see many mammals, birds, amphibians and reptiles and fish. We were fortunate to see an ancient, prehistoric paddle fish which surfaced briefly then returned to his mud shelter beneath the dark, dirty water of the Missouri River.

The smell of hot coffee and breakfast woke us to another day of adventure. As my favorite person on the Corps of Discovery, Joseph Fields, would have said "Dang guys, let's get going!" At mile marker 32, we came to Lewis' contingent camp of July 28,1806. Here it was that, after two weeks, all the factions of Lewis's group were reunited. Remember that L & C separated near Lolo, MT, with the idea that Clark would head for the Yellowstone River country, while Lewis was going to explore the headwaters of the Marias. When Lewis reached the Great Falls, he split his party leaving all his men except Drewyer and the Fields brothers to make the portage and to recover the caches at Portage Creek and the Marias River. Another five miles brings us to the June 1, 1805, camp ground. They camped on an island on the left side of the river; as there are several gravel bars in the area, its location is not known. Coal Banks Landing Recreation Site is soon in view, and this is where we refresh our water supply as well as ourselves. It is quiet here as it has been since we left Fort Benton. We camped that night in a large grove of poplar trees a couple miles below Coal Banks. Camp was set up and while dinner was being prepared, Sid took us up to the steppe above the Missouri where we had a majestic view of the river, the surrounding prairie and the beautiful distant Bears Paw Mountains. The view was spectacular, but what Sid brought us up here to see were the tippee rings. We found over 24 tippee rings, several of which were still in perfect shape right down to the stone fire rings in the middle! This is cattle grazing land, owned by the BLM, so it is amazing that these tippee rings left behind by the Blackfeet are still intact after so many years. I wonder if the Blackfeet looked down at the Corps as they passed by from this very Indian village?

Well, this is the day we have all been waiting for as we are soon to enter the White Cliffs area. Here we find many homesteads and scenery that is beyond compare. Karl Bodmer, the renowned painter, came through here in 1883 and spoke so eloquently with his paintbrush. If you put his paintings of the White Cliffs, the Grand Wall, Labarge Rock and Citadel Rock along with the written words of the Lewis and Clark journals, you have a scene of pure splendor, a rapture that exhausts your mind and imagination. As my friend Ron Evans said before I left on this quest, "Don, you cannot even come close to believing what you see!" So very true. Quotes from the journals: "seens of visionary inchantment"; "eligent ranges of lofty freestone biuldings, having their parapets well stocked with statuary"; "the soft sand cliffs into a thousand grotesque figures"; and "nature had attempted here to rival the human art of masonary." The highlight and the biggest heartbreak for all of us was the Eye of the Needle. The climb to the top and the view was like a dream come true, but the sight of the Eye now resembling two columns without the arch was very distressing. After nature took hundreds if not thousands of years to create such a masterpiece as the Eye of the Needle, three young adults (excuse the expression) destroyed it in a matter of minutes. The good news is that the FBI along with the BLM will take these disreputable people to court next year as they are close to a water-tight case against them. I can think of many ways to punish these individuals but none are legal or printable here.

The L & C campsite of May 31, 1805 was just above the mouth of Stonewall Creek, known today as Eagle Creek. This was the campsite where Lewis wrote his journal entry for the White Cliffs area. You can almost see him sitting back, relaxing after a hard day, thinking deeply about the visionary enchantment he had just experienced-his eyes afire with passion, his mind racing and searching for just the right expressive words, his heart pounding with exhilaration and his soul filled with awe for the creative forces of Mother Nature. On a cliff nearby, the letters USS MANDAN can still be seen. This was the last steamboat to arrive at Fort Benton on June 20, 1921, and when she left the famous waterfront a short while later, her departure was the end of the steamboat era. That night found us camping a mile from the Hole-in-the-Wall or, as the Native Americans call it, "Pierced Hole." We camped at the BLM campground which is one of several provided by them along this 147 mile run. We sat out under a cloudless, starlit night accented by a full moon. As Sid played his guitar for us, we all sang along and enjoyed the pleasures of looking at the night sky with the moonbeams dancing on the still waters of Lewis and Clark's Missouri River. Soon Gail and Carb started howling like werewolves at the full moon, but after a couple rounds from Sid's double-barreled shotgun, they scattered like rabbits across the open prairie, not to be seen until early morning.

After spending the night under the full moon, we start out for Judith Landing. This is an important destination for us; not only is it our next camping site but also where we replenish our all but melted ice supply! Drinking pop, juice and hot beer just doesn't cut it for me. I don't care what Lewis and Clark think! Once again the morning sky was bright and clear, beckoning us on to a new day of adventure and wonderment. At this point in our journey, we have become very skillful in handling the sleek, low riding canoes and we glide upon the smooth surface of "the River that scolds at all others" swiftly and silently.

Suddenly Steamboat Rock looms up to our left with Dark Butte still a mile away, staring deeply and intently as we approach them. Steamboat Rock is a large columnar sandstone formation on a bluff about a half mile northeast of the river which is exactly 2,215 river miles from St. Louis. We pass a few more homesteads when we come to the L & C camp of May 30, 1805. The Corps camped here after a pitiful day's travel of only 5 1/2 miles (Sid got upset 'cause we only made 16 miles!). Lewis wrote ". . . this day we proceeded with more labour and difficulty then we have yet experienced." I guided the canoe over to the gravel bar to our left and got out and climbed the bank. Here, perhaps more than any other place along this enchanted 147 miles, came my most magical moment. As I walked around the area of the campsite, I saw across the river the same eroded breaks with a small grove of cottonwoods that they had seen. I then looked towards my right and gazed upon the scarred, broken sandstone bluffs that the two captains had seen and wrote about so many years before. Then suddenly I was lost in time, and I had become one with the Corps. "My'" world had crumbled down around me and there I was, in the camp of the greatest expedition ever assembled. I was in their presence but no one noticed me! They were running back and forth getting the equipment and supplies and themselves out of the pouring rain. I reached out to touch someone who I thought was John Colter, but as I stepped forward to grab his arm something fell from his belt. I looked down and there in a pool of water and mud lay his compass, the glass face cracked and the surface worn and tarnished. I bent down to pick it up when I heard the cry of a young child. Was it Pomp calling out for his mother? I scooped up the compass and put it in my pocket when suddenly from behind I felt the touch of someone's hand on my shoulder. I thought it might be John Colter coming back for his compass, but when I turned around to face him, it was only Jimmie. The drenching rain had stopped and the bustling camp had disappeared. "Come on, we've got to catch up with the others!" I heard Jimmie saying. Feeling for the compass in my pocket, I brought it out to show him. Watching the crooked smile form on his face, I looked down at my hand, which was now holding only a small black stone!

Soon we came to one of the few campsites used by the Corps on both their westward and homeward bound journeys. Lewis camped at this spot on July 29, 1806, traveling 44 1/2 miles downstream. Then on May 29, 1805, the Corps camped here after canoeing upriver from the Judith landing-a distance of 12.2 miles. We are now at Arrow Creek, named Slaughter River by Lewis & Clark because of the large pile of rotting buffalo carcasses near here. Just a short distance from Slaughter River is the site of a buffalo jump, a barren sandstone cliff a little over 100 feet high. Lewis again writes "today we passed . . . the remains of a vast many mangled carcases of Buffalow which had been driven over a precipice of 120 feet by the Indians and perished; the water appeared to have washed away a part of this immence pile of slaughter and still there remained the fragments of at least a hundred carcases they created a most horrid stench. This stream we called Slaughter River." In 1833 Karl Bodmer went ashore near here and painted his famous scene, "Camp of Gros Ventres of the Prairies." Bodmer looked diagonally across the Missouri up Arrow Creek and painted the junction of Arrow Creek and the Missouri, showing over 200 lodges of the Gros Ventres camped there. Of course Gail, Carb and I spent some time here looking around trying to visualize in our minds an Indian village of this immense size, right here in this very place where we were now walking. Many homesteads and 11 miles farther down river, we came to Judith Landing. We are now 88 miles from Fort Benton, and we find in this area more incredible history: the Blackfeet-Flathead Council of 1846, the Judith Landing ferry crossing, Father DeSmet, Alexander Culbertson, the Stevens Treaty Council of 1855 and the Lewis & Clark campsite of May 28, 1805, which is just opposite Bull Creek which is now Dog Creek. This is where the expedition had a heart-stopping experience with a stampeding buffalo bull after they had all gone to bed; hence the name Bull Creek. I wonder if it was renamed in honor of Seaman who woke the camp up with his fearful barking and by whom and when?

The Judith River was first named Bighorn by Lewis and later changed to the Judith River by Clark. We camped that night on a sand bar which we named "lost shoe island" as a result of Steve losing his "mockersons" to the thick, deep, oozing mud on the river's edge. The next day we're off bright and early again and encounter more of the ever present homesteads and something new-a woodhawkers campsite. This is a very relaxing day with a lot of short hikes and lots of snooping around on shore. The Expedition's campsite of May 27, 1805, is passed and the only thing of note that Lewis had to say was "the country more broken and barren then yesterday if possible." The reason for this is because we are now in the Badlands, or the Missouri River Breaks. Here the effect of erosion is as obvious to us today as it was for the expedition. We camped this night on another lonely sand bar which becomes known forever as "Thunder Island" as a result of our waking in the morning, not from the smell of hot, steaming coffee, but rather from the sound of distant rolling thunder and the annoying splat of big fat raindrops! So, we will get to experience first-hand some of the bad weather that L & C found so frequently along the Missouri River. Great! We are still a day and a half from Kipp State Park so the race is on. The absolute downpour with the most amazing rolling thunder and the constant display of lightning makes the rest of the trip a blur, although at times most exhilarating. However the equation of lightning, water and aluminum canoes is somewhat disturbing, to say the least! The May 26, 1805, camp is noted as where Captain Clark climbed a high bluff and saw the Rocky Mountains for the first time. We paddle furiously past Cow Island where the Nez Perce crossed the Missouri River on September 23, 1877. When Sid called out loud and clear to get off the river, we did! We camped that night just downstream from the Nez Perce crossing and enjoyed a thoroughly wet, cold and sleepless night. The next morning EVERYTHING was wet and muddy. The mud on the Missouri River is like the dust along the Oregon Trail-it's everywhere you don't want it to be. The Missouri is raging (well, not really-it just sounded good) from the runoff along the Breaks and as far back as the White Cliffs area. Not taking care of how we packed this morning, all was thrown onto the pontoon and into the canoes. We had 17 miles to go to get to Kipp State Park, and we wanted to get there as soon as we could, sorta. Now, as we passed the last three L amp;& C campsites of May 25 and 24, 1805, and July 30, 1806, we are within sight of our final destination. The last couple miles went slower and were very emotional as we had time to relive some of the most wonderful memories of our lives, laugh at some of the funny things that we did and said (right, Gail?), cherish the time we had together, realizing we had done something that very few people have ever done:

WE DID THE ENTIRE 147 MILES OF THE UPPER MISSOURI NATIONAL WILD & SCENIC RIVER!

Kudos, Opportunities, Announcements

Interested in being involved in our chapter planning? Why not consider volunteering to serve as an officer or on the board for next year. Contact President Murray Hayes by December 30. Proposed nominations will be printed in the next newsletter, and the election will be held during our February 12 chapter meeting in Tacoma (an absentee ballot will be included with the next newsletter for those who cannot attend).

Recent research on military uniforms by WA State Park Ranger Gary Lentz indicates that hats worn by Lewis and Clark should be bi-corner rather than the tri-corner depicted in most illustrations (the bi-corner was adopted in 1802). Good work, Gary!

As more and more of us become involved in helping to tell the story of the Corps of Discovery, LCTHF President Elect Barb Kubik emphasizes the need for historical accuracy in all written material for public consumption. The Lewis and Clark Journals edited by Gary Moulton should be the final reference.

Our belated but nonetheless sincere "congratulations" to Cindy Orlando upon her promotion with the National Park Service, followed by a big thank you for all Cindy has accomplished during her tenure at Fort Clatsop, helping to make it one of the jewels of the national Lewis and Clark trail.

Steve Wang reports that the Legislature authorized a Lewis and Clark Advisory Committee comprised of six citizens, three Native Americans, president of the Washington State Historical Society, Director of State Parks, Secretary of the Department of Transportation, the chair of the Lewis and Clark Trail Committee, and four members of the Washington State Legislature.

And we extend a huge thank you to Cheryl Essary for taking the initiative to develop a comprehensive brochure about our Chapter to share with potential members. We'll have it published and ready to distribute shortly after the first of the year.

A big thank you to Cheryl Essary, "Doc" Wesselius and Muff Donohue for a great job of organizing the September 18 meeting in Dayton! If you weren't there, you missed out on a lot of fun.

Welcome to the following new members: John & Penelope Breitlow, Michael & Beverley Carrick, Fred L. Henley, Gary Lentz, Paul Nolte, Ruth & Tom Norwood, Martin B. Plamondon III, and Shirley Wagers.

Consider being a member of the Project Committee. Contact don.payne@accessone.com or 253-838-5906.

Chapter Treasurer's Reports

2nd Quarter ending June 30, 1999:
Income - $309.95 (dues, donations);
Expenses - $97.09 (postage, copying);
Balance - $2161.51.

3rd Quarter ending September 30, 1999:
Income - $0;
Expenses - $471.52 (postage, copying, donation);
Balance - $1689.99.

It's Official! We Have a Chapter Motto

At their September 18 meeting, your board voted unanimously to adopt O! the joy! as our chapter motto.

A New Marker on the Lewis and Clark Trail

In 1998 when Shirley (Mrs. Robert) Wagers became Regent of the Washington State Society, Daughters of the American Revolution, she chose as her history project the placement of special markers along the Lewis and Clark Trail in Washington State. She was authorized the use of the same marker design used by the Kansas State Society three years ago when they placed markers at Lewis and Clark campsites along the Missouri River on Kansas' eastern border. Now, as the Lewis and Clark Bicentennial nears, the State DAR Societies along the Trail between the beginning in Kansas and the ending in Washington are planning to complete this DAR marker trail.

The Society's first marker was placed on September 9, 1999, in a new park on the south bank of the Snake River in Clarkston. The park is across the river from the probable first Lewis and Clark campsite in what is now Washington State, and was built by the Port of Clarkston. DAR was delighted to place a marker there.

Rick Davis, Operations Director, Port of Clarkston, and Doreen Bridgmount, Chairman of the Asotin County Bicentennial Committee, put in many hours preparing for the dedication. A reception for the dedication guests was held in the port office after the ceremonies. John Tresko of Tresko Monuments in Spokane faithfully followed the patterns of the original marker. On the front of the marker, the emblem of the DAR and the logo of the National Park Service (which gave us the grant to help with this project) are highlighted in gold leaf. Quotes from the Lewis and Clark journals which refer to this area are carved on the back of the 42" tall Lake Superior green granite shaft.

In the beginning, the original sites for the markers in Washington had been planned in state parks, but activities in the parks are now on hold until changes are made for the bicentennial. At the July 17 meeting of the Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation in Stevenson, a few of the members were asked for suggestions for sites that could be used by the DAR. Most of the sites suggested have been checked and are awaiting further decisions. The Washington State Society, Daughters of the American Revolution, will place more markers when suitable sites are located.
--submitted by Chapter Member Leota "Lee" King

Corner of Discovery: Profiles of our Members
--prepared by Cheryl Essary

A column featuring Chapter members and their comments concerning their interest in the Lewis and Clark Expedition.

This column was conceived as a tool to help our members get to know one another (which can be a challenge when you consider that we're spread all around this great state!). I tried talking with members by phone-but, because we all lead busy lives, I found I was leaving a lot of voice mail messages. Next I tried sending a short list of questions to members, figuring they could write out their comments at their convenience and return them to me in the postage-paid envelope. But I haven't received many of these lately. So this writer and your editor are curious: Has this column been of interest to you? Do you enjoy reading about your fellow members? Would you like to share your own responses? If so, here are the questions. Go ahead-jot down your comments and send them along to me at
Cheryl Essary
886 So Hwy 17
Othello, WA  99344-9799
merckdf@concord.televar.com
I look forward to hearing from many of you!
1. How did you become interested in Lewis and Clark?
2. What parts of the trail have you traveled? What was your favorite place? Why?
3. Other than the journals, what is/are your favorite Lewis and Clark books(s)? Why?
4. Do you have a favorite member of the expedition? If so, whom and why?
5. What aspect of the expedition most interests you? (geography, natural history, Native Americans, etc.)
6. Is there anything else you would like to add?

February Journals: Winter Camps-Times of Pomp and Circumstance

February is often a difficult late winter month. It is also a month of heightened anticipation of the coming seasonal rebirth. The Corps spent two Februarys on the Discovery Trail-1805 and 1806-experiencing harsh and dreary climes and new life. Winter 1805 was passed living among a large community of Mandan and Hidatsa natives at Fort Mandan, near Bismarck and the present day North Dakota Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center at Washburn. It was an unusually cold winter and game was scarce close to the primitive fort. Clark recorded just how far hunting parties had to go to find game. ". . . provisions nearly gone, hunters decend 60 mi. & killed 40 deer, 3 bullls & 19 elk." (Capt. William Clark, February 3, 1805) Getting the provisions back to camp was the next ordeal. The composition of the Corps was about to change. "about five oClock this evening one of the wives of [Touissant] Charbonneau [interpreter] was delivered of a boy. it is worthy of remark that this was the first child which this woman had boarn, and as is common in such cases her labour was tedious and the pain violent . . . ." (Capt. Meriwether Lewis, February 11, 1805) The mother was Sacagawea, a Shoshone about 16, who had been captured by the Hidatsas four years earlier near the headwaters of the Missouri River. The fine boy was Jean Baptiste, nicknamed Pomp by Clark, who became his guardian six years later. Patrick Gass noted the arrival of Pomp in his journal with emphasis. "On the 12th. We arrived at the Fort [Gass had been out with a hunting party]; and found that one of our interpreter's wives had in our absence made an ADDITION to our number." (Patrick Gass, entry began February 5, 1805)

Pomp also provides following generations with a major physical reminder of the extraordinary voyage. Twenty miles down the Yellowstone River from modern-day Billings, Montana, Clark observed " . . . a remarkable rock situated in an extensive bottom on the Starboard Side of the river & 250 paces from it. The rock I ascended and from it's top had a most extensive view in every direction. This rock which I shall call Pompy's Tower is 200 feet high it being a perpendicular cliff. The Indians have engraved on the face of this rock the figures of animals &c near which I marked my name and the day of the month & year." (Capt. William Clark, July 25, 1806) Clark's sandstone carving, "Wm. Clark July 25, 1806" can be seen today on the BLM site now known as Pompey's Pillar, just off I-94.

The circumstances of the 1806 winter camp at Fort Clatsop near the Columbia River estuary were depressingly sodden. Modern weather chroniclers believe the winter of 1805-1806 was the wettest with the fewest clear days on the Northwest coast of any winter since. The Corps agrees in its journals. Entries cite recurring severe storms; clothing, bedding and footgear rotting; food spoiling; dreariness, boredom, illness, homesickness and fractious Indian neighbors. It was a winter that couldn't end soon enough.

These circumstances created a continuing anxiety among the Corps to leave Fort Clatsop and probably contributed to the premature departure before the spring runoff occurred. Three February 1806 entries by Sgt. Gass capture the pre-departure activity of the Corps. "We were employed in bringing in meat, and the sergeant and 7 men again set out for the salt works [near Seaside, Oregon] by land, to bring the salt and kettles to the fort. The day was very wet and stormy." (Wednesday, 19th) "This was a cloudy morning. A member of the Chinook Indians came to the fort with hats to trade. They are made of the cedar bark, look handsome and keep out the rain. But little rain fell to day, and in the evening we turned out the natives as usual, and they all went home." (Thursday, 20th) "About 1 o'clock, our salt makers came home, with the salt and baggage. They had a very unpleasant day, as it rained hard during the whole of it." (Friday, 21st)

Clark commented on the striking Clatsop headgear. " . . . on these hats they work figures of various colors, but most commonly only black and white are employed. These figures are faint representations of the whales, the Canoes, and the harpooners Strikeing them."

The homeward bound journey in six canoes began March 23, 1806.
--contributed by Charles Blair

Remember to check our Chapter Web Page @ http://www.lcarchive.org/wa_lcthf.html (thanks, Jay Rasmussen!)
For links to many other L&C sites, visit http://www.lcarchive.org

Mark Your Calendar for Upcoming Chapter Meetings

February 12, 2000: Washington State Historical Museum, Tacoma, 10:00 a.m.; lecture by Dave Nicandri - "Clark and Lewis in Washington: The Narrative of Discovery", business meeting and election of chapter officers and board members for the year 2000 (more detailed info in January newsletter).

May 20, 2000: Horsethief Lake State Park, Klickitat County; lecture by Martin Plomondon (see related article).

August 2000: Annual LCTHF Meeting, Dillon, Montana (see related article).

September 23, 2000: Bonneville Dam Visitor's Center, Columbia River. Lecture and tour by Don Dinsmore.

More Potential Chapter Projects

In the President's Message, Murray Hayes told us about some projects the chapter will be tackling. Some additional potential projects with which we might be involved:

Earlier this century, blue and white Lewis and Clark highway markers were made and posted in the southeast corner of our state; very few remain. One is preserved in the Luna House in Lewiston. Another one is still posted on Highway 12 in Dayton but is deteriorating quickly. Steve Lee and Muff Donohue are heading up an effort to have a replica made up to replace the original, with the original marker placed indoors in a public place to preserve it. Steve has the original artwork, which seems to have been done by a Montana artist.

Also, the chapter will be working with the Washington State Society, Daughters of the American Revolution, to assist them in finding locations where monuments can be erected along the Lewis and Clark Trail (see related story).

Opportunity Is Still Knocking

We're always looking for stories, articles, etc. for this newsletter. No, you don't have to be a professional writer; this newsletter is by and for our members-the more we share with one another, the better it will become. So why not share with your fellow members? How about funny/scary/educational experiences while traveling a portion of the Lewis and Clark Trail? Your special interest in some aspect of the Expedition? We're all amateur writers-so come on, join us and submit something for the newsletter. Letters to the editor and queries for some of our "amateur Lamp;&C expert" members are always welcome, as are suggestions for articles. We welcome newspaper clippings about any L&C Trail aspect to keep our members up-to-date. Also send in your "recommended reading" ideas to share with members-anything related to L&C, the Northwest, history, travel, etc. Let me hear from YOU! Send any of the above to your editor
Pam Andersen
2374 Crestline Blvd NW
Olympia, WA  98502

Recommended Reading

River Horse by William Least Heat Moon, is about a trip by water from Astoria, New York, to Astoria, Oregon, with many references to Lewis and Clark
(suggested by Cheryl Essary)

1999 Chapter Officers and Board Members

President: Murray Hayes
  360-582-1069 		Vice Pres.: Cheryl Essary
  509-488-9074
Secretary:
 Pam Andersen
  360-943-3979 		Treasurer: Dee Coons
  509-758-9850
Board: Lee Edtl
  360-577-0485
Rennie Kubik
  360-546-5989
   Lyle Soule
  360-394-1755
"Doc" Wesselius
  360-736-6106
Membership: Don Popejoy
  509-328-9368 		Past Pres.: Don Payne
  253-838-5906


News and Activities from Near and Far

  • The Tri-Cities area is proposing a continuous loop shoreline trail system along the Columbia River. When complete, the 22-mile trail would identify the area's historic relationship to the Corps and provide heritage, cultural and environmental interpretative opportunities. It would connect with Sacajawea State Park and its Interpretive Center. [source: National Park Service Lewis & Clark Trail Administrative Update, 10/99, We Proceeded On, 11/99]

  • Dayton received a federal highway enhancement grant for interpretive markers at significant historic points northeast of town, including where the Corps of Discovery camped on their eastbound journey in May 1806. [source: 200 Newsletter, 10/99, published by Washington State Historical Society Outreach Services Division]

  • A team of consultants and state agency representatives is working with the Asotin County Bicentennial Committee, the US Army Corps of Engineers, the Nez Perce Tribe, and the Clarkston and Lewiston communities to develop a proposal with the following components: a Lamp;&C Discovery Center at the Confluence site in Clarkston; an interpretive loop trail and overlooks/interpretive shelters at Chief Timothy State Park; a Discovery Trail connecting Discovery Center with Chief Timothy State Park; and a scenic interpretive drive and Corps of Discovery Trail on the north side of the Snake River along SR 193/Wawawai River Road in Whitman County. [source: 200 Newsletter, 10/99, published by Washington State Historical Society Outreach Services Division]

  • The Washington State Agency Advisory Team for the Lewis and Clark Bicentennial was awarded a grant for the Lewis and Clark Highway Enhancements Project. A total of $615,000 will be available from federal highway funds and state matching funds for: additional trailblazer logo signs along the L&C highway; signs marking officially designated National Park Service L&C sites; supplemental guide signs & route markers directing travelers to L&C highway routes from connecting highways amp;& interstates; "Welcome to Washington" gateway signs at entrances to the state along the Trail; interpretive panels at pull-offs & publicly accessible sites along the trail; and interpretive/ information kiosks at pull-offs & accessible sites along the trail. When planning is complete, a consultant team will be chosen to work closely with historical experts, tribal members & local communities on design & interpretive text. [source: 200 Newsletter, 10/99, published by Washington State Historical Society Outreach Services Division]

  • As noted in the last issue of our newsletter, the Department of the Interior has been asked to consider making the White Cliffs area of the Missouri River the nation's newest national park. To gather input, the Montana office of the Bureau of Land Management held meetings in June and is now soliciting written comments. Sammye Meadows, Executive Director of the LCTHF, urges members to participate. Since the BLM manages about 280 miles of the Lewis and Clark Trail in Montana, she notes that "because of our collective role as advocates for the Trail and keepers of this story, it is important that the BLM hears from Lewis and Clark enthusiasts." There is no formal deadline for comments. Contact Kim Prill (PO Box 36800, Billings, MT 59107) for more information. [source: National Park Service Lewis & Clark Trail Administrative Update, 10/99]

  • The Headwaters Chapter of the LCTHF has produced a new brochure entitled "Three Forks of the Lewis and Clark Trail." The brochure has information about the Three Forks area, some nice photos, and Corps of Discovery journal entries through the area. For more information, contact the Headwaters Chapter, PO Box 577, Bozeman, MT 59771.

  • The BLM is proposing to develop a visitor center as part of a long-range planning effort at Pompey's Pillar National Historical Landmark. For more information or to provide comments on the proposal, contact Dick Kodeski, Manager, Pompey's Pillar, BLM Billings Field Office, 5001 Southgate Drive, Billings, MT 59101; phone 406-896-5235.

  • Poet Mark Hamilton, former literature professor from Ball State University in Indiana, is tracing the Lewis and Clark Trail by following the same time line as the Corps and using similar transportation (a kayak and a pack mule). Paddling upriver, portaging the kayak at Great Falls, and coming face-to-face with the Rocky Mountains were simultaneously Hamilton's biggest challenges and loftiest high points, he said. Friendly strangers have helped along the way, which is what the Corps also encountered. He plans to adapt the Lewis and Clark journals into poetry as part of a doctorate program. [source: Medford Mail-Tribune, 10/10/99]

  • An American Legacy: The Lewis and Clark Expedition, a curriculum and resource guide for middle/junior high students, has been published by the LCTHF. It includes lessons in the sciences, mathematics, social studies, language arts, cultural studies & the arts; it also contains lesson plans, reference guide, handouts, & reading materials. Why not consider making a gift of this material to your local school district? Cost is $45 plus $7 shipping.

  • The Missouri Historical Society has restored the only surviving painting of Meriwether Lewis by French artist Saint-Memin with a $3000 grant from the LCTHF. The portrait came to the Society in 1936 from Meriwether Lewis Anderson, the great-grandson of Lewis' sister, Jane. The Society is now raising approximately $2000 in order to commission a replica of the original mat and frame. The portrait will then be exhibited in the upcoming National Lewis and Clark Bicentennial Exhibition. Contributions may be sent to: Missouri Historical Society, PO Box 11940, St. Louis, MO 63112-0040. [source: National Park Service Lewis & Clark Trail Administrative Update, 10/99]

  • The Sierra Club is giving the Lewis and Clark legacy a big boost by proposing to work on preserving sites along the trail which may be in jeopardy due to the many pressures of our modern-day lifestyle and choices. [source: Associated Press article in many newspapers, 11/18/99]

    WASHINGTON STATE CHAPTER
    Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation
    2374 Crestline Blvd NW
    Olympia, WA  98502


    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


    MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION/RENEWAL

    CHAPTER MEMBERSHIP
    $10.00 per year (Jan-Dec) for any
    person, family, firm, association or
    corporation. Please make checks
    payable to:
    Washington State Chapter LCTHF

    Dues are kept as low as possible to
    encourage wide membership. In
    addition, members are encouraged
    to make additional donations to
    support the organization.
    Name(s)_____________________________________________

    Street _____________________________________________

    City _______________________________________________

    State _______________ Zip _________________________

    *Phone: (h)____________________ (w)________________

    *E-mail: ___________________________________________

    *Optional-will be included with membership roster

    Above dues are for Washington State Chapter only. Bylaws state that Chapter members must be current members of the National Foundation. Annual dues are: Individual, $30 per year; Family, $40 per year. Membership includes the quarterly magazine We Proceeded On. Send Foundation dues to: Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, PO Box 3434, Great Falls, MT 59403.



    For information on joining the National Lewis & Clark Trail Heritage Foundation click here.

    For information on joining the Washington State Chapter click here.


    Return to Washington State Chapter Main Page

    Return to L & C Archive List

    Updated: August 21, 2000
    Posted: November 28, 1999

    Send Questions, Comments and Corrections to Jay Rasmussen